I finally plucked up the courage and entered a local Go club, only to find no-one there! A bit of shouting summoned the talkative old lady who runs the place and professes to know nothing of the game, who then called up a guy to play me, despite my protestations...
A bit of background on the rankings: Fresh players (me!) start around 30-25 kyuu, and quickly work their way up to 10 kyuu-ish, more slowly to 1 kyuu, then it flips over and you start at amateur 1 dan and crawl up to 7 dan. Roughly speaking, for every difference in rank you are entitled to place one handicap stone on the board, to a maximum of 9 in a pre-set pattern. Professionals have a separate dan ranking from 1 to 9, where 1 is roughly equivalent to a 7 dan amateur.
Needless to say, in my first ever game on a full-sized board Yoshio, a 5-dan player and the guy with more hair, whupped my butt good, despite my 9 stone handicap. My second ever game against the other guy I lost by a mere 26.5 points with an 8 stone handicap. I was very proud, and somewhat shocked, that I managed to force the game to be played through to a final count.
Yoshio was quite effusive with his praise, if I understood him correctly, and showed me some Joseki opening moves and some fundamental differences between playing on a small and a real board. He expects I can hit 5 kyuu in time.
In the game you see here Yoshio (white) won quite handily against the other guy I played after a protracted fight in the centre.