4/1 - 4/3
Daulatabad seems to be overlooked by guide books in favour of the caves nearby, so we almost didn't visit but I'm so glad we did.
Thick stocky walls three deep encircle a huge area that includes a victory minaret, reservoirs, temples and a prison for kings. The main castle covers a mountain that has had its sides sheared away to create a vertical face that plunges into a 15 metre deep moat-chasm across which only one tiny narrow bridge provides access. Get across that bridge and you enter a pitch-black winding tunnel with hidden smoke-holes to pump fumes in and a fake exit that drops you into the chasm. With only our feeble torch to light our way we got a good sense of just how bewildering it would be for any would-be invaders. The invincible reputation of the defences made the place an attractive location for security-conscious empire-builders but it never once saw a battle.
Climbing all the way to the top gave us a breathtaking 360 degree view of... not a lot, but a lot of it.
The fruit-juice vendors out front helped us flag down bus back to town and were really chatty and friendly.
Getting back to the hotel in the evening we found ourselves kicked out of our room! The owner had someone coming in, presumably willing to pay a higher rate, and we had only thought to ask for 4 nights initially, not expecting to spend so long in town. They did help us find another place that wasn't too shabby for one night, but we decided to check out, see the Ajanta caves and find a place to stay in Jalgaon to the North.
The Ajanta caves are famous for their 5th century artwork, but there was nothing as outstanding as the Kailash temple at Ellora. We hurried round, keeping a step ahead of the masses of schoolchildren.
Arriving at Jalgaon we stayed at the pristine white Plaza hotel with its helpful and informative owner, who gave us a detailed breakdown on how to use the waiting list system and baksheesh/bribes to get on trains without waiting too long for seats. We ignored all his advice and opted to book a seat and wait two days in town. Good food, friendly juice vendors and a network of weird internet cafes that couldn't connect our notebook computer.
Daulatabad seems to be overlooked by guide books in favour of the caves nearby, so we almost didn't visit but I'm so glad we did.
Thick stocky walls three deep encircle a huge area that includes a victory minaret, reservoirs, temples and a prison for kings. The main castle covers a mountain that has had its sides sheared away to create a vertical face that plunges into a 15 metre deep moat-chasm across which only one tiny narrow bridge provides access. Get across that bridge and you enter a pitch-black winding tunnel with hidden smoke-holes to pump fumes in and a fake exit that drops you into the chasm. With only our feeble torch to light our way we got a good sense of just how bewildering it would be for any would-be invaders. The invincible reputation of the defences made the place an attractive location for security-conscious empire-builders but it never once saw a battle.
Climbing all the way to the top gave us a breathtaking 360 degree view of... not a lot, but a lot of it.
The prison for royal captives.
The fruit-juice vendors out front helped us flag down bus back to town and were really chatty and friendly.
Getting back to the hotel in the evening we found ourselves kicked out of our room! The owner had someone coming in, presumably willing to pay a higher rate, and we had only thought to ask for 4 nights initially, not expecting to spend so long in town. They did help us find another place that wasn't too shabby for one night, but we decided to check out, see the Ajanta caves and find a place to stay in Jalgaon to the North.
The Ajanta caves are famous for their 5th century artwork, but there was nothing as outstanding as the Kailash temple at Ellora. We hurried round, keeping a step ahead of the masses of schoolchildren.
Arriving at Jalgaon we stayed at the pristine white Plaza hotel with its helpful and informative owner, who gave us a detailed breakdown on how to use the waiting list system and baksheesh/bribes to get on trains without waiting too long for seats. We ignored all his advice and opted to book a seat and wait two days in town. Good food, friendly juice vendors and a network of weird internet cafes that couldn't connect our notebook computer.
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