1/15 - 1/21
First impressions of Albania were pretty good: Very casual border control, an offer of directions in Gjirokaster and even a 3,000 leke loan from our chosen B&B since the old town money changers were closed. In fact most of the old town was closed, and a fair few of the listed buildings' roofs were caved in, but the stone-roofed building, cobbled streets and huge castle made the hilltop town quite attractive in a cold way.
Met a very talkative and more than a bit pompous old Brit at the B&B, as well as a reserved Japanese woman who couldn't get a word in edgeways. We met her again when climbing up to the castle in Berat and it turns out she's a photographer named Mika Sudo who specialises in taking pictures of taiyaki around the world. She was again staying in the same hotel as us, and was already on first name terms with the rather large turkey in the garden. Funny old character. This photo of Meteora is from her website:
Berat castle had a living, breathing community housed within its walls. Lots of work crews were digging up paths and working on the water supply as we walked around and the place just felt so functional and alive (not that my photos reflect this). Fascinating.
Tirana was alright, not much stood out other than the ridiculous 1,000 leke tax per person that all hotels had to pay and the broken-down graffiti-covered communist-era pyramid with kids running up and down it. Built by the daughter of an unpopular tyrant I get the impression no-one wanted to take responsibility for the ugly old thing.
Our final stop in Albania was Shkodra, notable only for being the first place where we paid 'local' room rates - a mere 1,000 leke for a room in a huge, drafty, communist-era hotel. While the room was freezing and spartan the ground floor was spacious and opulent, and the restaurant (where we didn't eat) even had an almost operatic singer belting out songs all evening.
First impressions of Albania were pretty good: Very casual border control, an offer of directions in Gjirokaster and even a 3,000 leke loan from our chosen B&B since the old town money changers were closed. In fact most of the old town was closed, and a fair few of the listed buildings' roofs were caved in, but the stone-roofed building, cobbled streets and huge castle made the hilltop town quite attractive in a cold way.
Met a very talkative and more than a bit pompous old Brit at the B&B, as well as a reserved Japanese woman who couldn't get a word in edgeways. We met her again when climbing up to the castle in Berat and it turns out she's a photographer named Mika Sudo who specialises in taking pictures of taiyaki around the world. She was again staying in the same hotel as us, and was already on first name terms with the rather large turkey in the garden. Funny old character. This photo of Meteora is from her website:
Berat castle had a living, breathing community housed within its walls. Lots of work crews were digging up paths and working on the water supply as we walked around and the place just felt so functional and alive (not that my photos reflect this). Fascinating.
Teeny-tiny taiyaki in the foreground
Bar!
A very dangerous-looking old cistern that I was happy to see wasn't blocked off.
Our hotel is in there somewhere
very narrow streets.
Tirana was alright, not much stood out other than the ridiculous 1,000 leke tax per person that all hotels had to pay and the broken-down graffiti-covered communist-era pyramid with kids running up and down it. Built by the daughter of an unpopular tyrant I get the impression no-one wanted to take responsibility for the ugly old thing.
Our final stop in Albania was Shkodra, notable only for being the first place where we paid 'local' room rates - a mere 1,000 leke for a room in a huge, drafty, communist-era hotel. While the room was freezing and spartan the ground floor was spacious and opulent, and the restaurant (where we didn't eat) even had an almost operatic singer belting out songs all evening.
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