1/21 - 1/24
First impressions of Montenegro were not so good. From Shkodra to Ulcinj, then to Budva, which I can only describe as an empty off-season party town. The old town was alright, but even that had been rebuilt after an earthquake and was rammed with tourist shops. The only real highlight was the heavy-drinking red-nosed fisherman Adrovic whose home we stayed in.
Thankfully Kotor surpassed all expectations with a dramatic view, beautiful old town and crazy wall snaking all the way up the mountain. Walking around on subsequent days it seemed like accommodation should have been really difficult to find, with no visible hostels and only one or two expensive hotels to be found. On the day we arrived though, we were met almost as soon as we walked through the gates by a Croat from Dubrovnik who introduced us to a home owner whose rooms were a little pricey. She in turn introduced us to another home owner whose place was much nicer and cheaper. There were no signs or any external indications that these places were anything other than ancient stone houses.
Partly because we weren't sure where the city wall walk was supposed to start, and partly in an attempt to avoid paying to walk up it we ended up taking a dangerous, crumbling and overgrown route up the city wall to the castle. Stunning views and precarious drops aplenty.
That afternoon I took a bus back to Budva to pick up the glasses Hozumi had left at Adrovic's place. He greeted me with more booze and an old pair of brown reading glasses. Took me a good few seconds to realise he was pulling my leg!
We would have liked to see more of the interior of Montenegro, but keeping up the pace we moved on to Croatia the next day.
First impressions of Montenegro were not so good. From Shkodra to Ulcinj, then to Budva, which I can only describe as an empty off-season party town. The old town was alright, but even that had been rebuilt after an earthquake and was rammed with tourist shops. The only real highlight was the heavy-drinking red-nosed fisherman Adrovic whose home we stayed in.
Thankfully Kotor surpassed all expectations with a dramatic view, beautiful old town and crazy wall snaking all the way up the mountain. Walking around on subsequent days it seemed like accommodation should have been really difficult to find, with no visible hostels and only one or two expensive hotels to be found. On the day we arrived though, we were met almost as soon as we walked through the gates by a Croat from Dubrovnik who introduced us to a home owner whose rooms were a little pricey. She in turn introduced us to another home owner whose place was much nicer and cheaper. There were no signs or any external indications that these places were anything other than ancient stone houses.
2.2 litres of lager for 1.6 euro!
Partly because we weren't sure where the city wall walk was supposed to start, and partly in an attempt to avoid paying to walk up it we ended up taking a dangerous, crumbling and overgrown route up the city wall to the castle. Stunning views and precarious drops aplenty.
The route we took...
...and the route we should have taken!
That afternoon I took a bus back to Budva to pick up the glasses Hozumi had left at Adrovic's place. He greeted me with more booze and an old pair of brown reading glasses. Took me a good few seconds to realise he was pulling my leg!
We would have liked to see more of the interior of Montenegro, but keeping up the pace we moved on to Croatia the next day.
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